Error 92 appears on condensing Rinnai models and means that the neutralizer has reached the end of its life or is clogged. The neutralizer is responsible for treating acidic condensate before it’s drained away.
There’s no quick DIY fix for this—neutralizers need to be inspected and replaced by a technician to prevent condensate damage to the system or plumbing.
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This is a limescale warning. It means the heat exchanger has built up scale from hard water, which can reduce performance, raise energy use, and eventually lead to failure.
While the unit might still function, you should act promptly. A descaling treatment will restore efficiency. This must be done by a qualified technician using proper equipment.
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SE stands for “System Error” and usually indicates a communication failure between components—such as between the water heater and a controller.
Check the connection cable if your controller is wired, or move closer if it’s a wireless controller. If the error persists, a technician will need to inspect for faults in the circuit board or communication wiring.
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Error 65 indicates that the water flow control valve isn’t functioning correctly. It may not be adjusting the flow rate as needed, or could be stuck.
If you’re experiencing irregular water flow or temperature, this valve could be the culprit. Unfortunately, it’s an internal component and not something you can safely access or service yourself.
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Error 16 means the water heater has detected that the water temperature has exceeded safe limits. It’s a high-temperature warning designed to protect the unit and your household.
This one should not be ignored. While the unit may still work intermittently, persistent overheating is a serious issue. It could be related to scale buildup, a faulty thermostat, or sensor problems. A licensed technician will need to inspect and test the components.
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This code signals a problem with the bypass valve, which works alongside the main flow control to maintain consistent water temperature.
Bypass valve faults usually result in fluctuating temperatures or sudden cold water bursts. This component needs to be tested and potentially replaced by a qualified technician.
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Error 19 indicates an electrical earth connection fault inside the unit. It can be triggered by moisture, corrosion, or component wear.
There are no safe DIY fixes for this one. Electrical issues within the unit require licensed professionals to test, isolate, and repair the fault.
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Error 70 points to a fault in the unit’s internal microprocessor—essentially the brain of your water heater. This could be due to a surge, moisture, or hardware failure.
You can try resetting the system by turning it off at the power point for 30 seconds, then switching it back on. If the error reappears, the control board may need servicing or replacement.
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This error means the internal settings of the water heater don’t match the actual installation. It’s often due to incorrect dipswitch or programming settings during install or servicing.
Resetting dipswitch settings or reprogramming should only be done by a licensed technician. In most cases, the error won’t clear until the settings are corrected to match your heater’s setup.
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Similar to Error 70, this code also refers to a microprocessor fault—often related to signal irregularities or internal circuitry problems.
As with Error 70, try a full power reset. If that doesn’t resolve it, professional diagnostics are needed to determine if the PCB (printed circuit board) has failed.
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This error typically relates to a condensate drain fault in condensing models. It means the condensate produced during operation isn’t draining correctly, potentially causing system shutdowns.
Check around the base of the unit for any obvious drain blockages or kinks in the hose. If there’s visible water pooling or evidence of overflow, don’t try to fix it yourself—water and electronics don’t mix.
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This error points to a flame detection circuit fault. The system isn’t able to verify the flame during ignition, even if the burner is operating.
It may be caused by carbon buildup on the flame rod, wiring issues, or a faulty sensor. Cleaning or replacing the sensor is typically required—this is a job for a licensed gas fitter.
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Error 32 means the outgoing water temperature sensor isn’t reading correctly. This could be caused by sensor failure, loose wiring, or temperature drift.
There’s nothing safe to check as a homeowner here—temperature sensors need testing and replacement by a qualified technician. If the error appears repeatedly or shuts the unit down, book a service.
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Error 33 points to a fault with the heat exchanger outlet temperature sensor. This sensor monitors the water as it exits the heat exchanger to ensure it doesn’t overheat.
This is a component-level fault that typically requires sensor replacement or testing of the wiring. There are no safe DIY fixes for this one—leave it to the professionals.
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Error Code 03 typically occurs when there’s a power disruption during a bath fill cycle. It prevents the unit from resuming operation automatically once power is restored, as a safety precaution.
Try resetting the unit by turning off all hot water taps, waiting a few seconds, then turning the unit off and on again at the controller (if fitted). If this doesn’t clear the error, you’ll need a licensed technician to inspect and reset the system properly.
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This error means the combustion temperature sensor has detected abnormal temperatures. It could be due to blocked airflow, excess heat, or a sensor fault.
First, check for any obvious obstructions near the flue or air intake. If everything looks clear, the issue is likely internal. Don’t attempt repairs yourself—faulty combustion can be dangerous.
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Error Code 10 indicates a problem with airflow—usually a blocked or restricted flue or air intake. This means your unit isn’t getting enough oxygen to operate safely.
Check the area around your unit’s air intake and flue outlet for any obstructions like leaves, dirt, or debris. Clear away anything that could be restricting airflow. If the error persists, internal inspection by a licensed gas plumber is required.
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Error 41 means the ambient temperature sensor has failed. This sensor helps the unit adapt to surrounding environmental conditions, especially in cold weather.
There’s no way to bypass or reset this error manually. The sensor will need testing and likely replacing by a licensed technician.
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Error 11 is a common ignition fault. It means your water heater failed to light. Causes may include no gas supply, a faulty igniter, or issues with flame sensing.
You can do a basic check yourself: Open a hot water tap and listen—do you hear the fan start, gas valves clicking, and the igniter clicking? If you don’t smell any gas or hear ignition clicks, there may be no gas supply or a valve issue. If you hear ignition but no flame lights, the igniter or flame rod could be at fault. Either way, Error 11 requires professional attention.
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This error indicates a fault with the gas modulating valve. This component controls the amount of gas sent to the burner based on your hot water needs.
You may notice inconsistent water temperatures or ignition failure. Unfortunately, this is not something that can be tested without proper tools. Book a service with a qualified gas fitter.
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This code means ignition started, but the flame was lost. It’s often caused by low gas pressure, a faulty flame rod, or issues with the gas valve.
If this error happens repeatedly, it usually indicates a more complex fault. Check that your gas supply is active and isolation valves are fully open. If gas is flowing and the error continues, contact a licensed professional.
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Error 61 signals a fault with the combustion fan. This fan expels combustion gases and draws in fresh air to keep the unit running safely.
Check the area around the flue for any debris, nests, or obstructions. If it’s clear and the error persists, the fan may be worn out or electrically faulty. You’ll need a professional to test and replace it if necessary.
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Error 14 signals that the over-temperature sensor or thermal fuse has been triggered. This usually means the unit is overheating.
This isn’t something that can be fixed without technical skills. The system may still operate briefly but will shut down again for safety. Do not attempt to reset or bypass this yourself—it needs inspection by a qualified technician.
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